
                        By 
                          Ellen Walsh
                          Photos by Michael Walsh and Steve Aja
                        Tucked 
                          into a private corner off the rugged Pacific Coast, 
                          is an eco system so perfect for the spawning and farming 
                          of abalone, that it cannot be duplicated anywhere in 
                          the world.
                        On 
                          site producer Brad Buckley of The Abalone Farm in Cayacus, 
                          California was there on a clear and beautiful day to 
                          show us around, showing us the ins and outs of abalone 
                          farming.
                        With 
                          controlled fertilization through wild abalone, this 
                          highly acclaimed, sustainably managed aquaculture facility 
                          harvests 1.5 – 3 tons of abalone per week, supplying 
                          sushi restaurants world wide with live abalone.
                        
                           
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                        First 
                          Stage of Growth – Infancy through the First Eight 
                          Months of Life (xx)
                          The eggs are in buckets in the 
                          “hatchery” – infused with the wild 
                          abalone sperm. They hatch within 24 hours and are transferred 
                          to tanks after 5 days. In the nursery, they are no longer 
                          eggs – they are baby abalone.
                        We 
                          first entered the nursery, a term loosely used to describe 
                          the months old abalone as they lay on the bottom of 
                          well ventilated tanks waiting to grow. They have already 
                          been infused with the sperm of the wild abalone. During 
                          this process, attention is paid to the growth process 
                          of the growing abalone, attempting to keep like sizes 
                          with like sizes, readjusting their tank locations through 
                          painstakingly delicate methods. Their light greenish 
                          color becomes more apparent as they grow, as they hunker 
                          down for their cozy 8 month stay of their first stage 
                          of life.
                        Out 
                          of the 15 – 30 million abalone that have been 
                          spawned, 10 – 15% will make it into stage two 
                          of life.
                        
                        Stage 
                          Two – 8 Months to 2 Years Old
                          Once the abalone have survived 
                          the critical stage of its infancy, they are ready to 
                          move into the sunlight. Grouped together in their first 
                          outdoor tanks located right outside their former nursery, 
                          they feed on whole algae, and take on a light greenish 
                          and blue color. The size of these delicate beings rest 
                          easily on the fingernail of a hand. 
                        Stage 
                          Three – 2 Years to 4 Years
                          After their second year of life, 
                          they will make but one more move, and that is to the 
                          larger tanks on the other side of the farm, where the 
                          current of the moving water is a little stronger, but 
                          the constant supply of seaweed and algae is constant. 
                          Their natural habitat of sunlight and seaweed is all 
                          these feisty little sea creatures need to grow and thrive.
                        
                        You 
                          may be surprised at the usage of the word “feisty” 
                          when describing abalone. During the final stages of 
                          the abalone’s growth, they show an amazing amount 
                          of vigor and strength. We were surprised at the coaxing 
                          it took to pull an abalone off its resting perch. They 
                          held on tight, and the other abalone definitely reacted 
                          to the disturbance of one of their own being lifted 
                          from the waters. Brad held one of the abalone in its 
                          hand for us, and we were amazed at the tenacity of its 
                          feet as it moved around, and finally settled, into a 
                          position on Brad’s hand.
                        Diet 
                          of the Abalone
                          Themain diet of the abalone is 
                          algae and seaweed, conveniently grown in the Pacific 
                          ocean just off the shores of the farm. If you look at 
                          the photograph of the farm overlooking the ocean, you 
                          will see a light brown haze over the water, just a couple 
                          hundred yards off the jagged shore’s edge. That 
                          is, in fact, the algae and seaweed that feeds the abalone 
                          through all its stages of growth. In the early stages 
                          of infancy, the algae is fed through a tube into the 
                          tanks, and in the later stages, the seaweed is fed whole. 
                          So abundant and fast growing is this ocean bed of nutrition, 
                          that the abalone farmers never even have to go below 
                          the surface of the water to collect the algae. They 
                          just snip off the top 5 inches, collecting less than 
                          10% of the available crop. And it’s a wonder they 
                          even take 10% of the kelp. It grows back at the rate 
                          of 1 inch per hour!
                        
                        Size 
                          of the Abalone
                          Moving the abalone through their 
                          stages is primarily a function of age. The average size 
                          of the harvested Abalone is 3.25 ounces, to 4 ounces 
                          in the shell. The meat usually represents about 30% 
                          of the abalone’s weight. Once it reaches its optimum 
                          weight, growth slows down tremendously in the Abalone 
                          Farm. A nine year old abalone can be as big as 7 inches. 
                          The shell just grows right along with the abalone as 
                          it matures, keeping the same shell throughout its lifetime.
                        
                           
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                            | Each 
                                bag is approximately 10 lbs. It is shipped at abut 50 – 55 degrees temperature.
 1200 lbs a week get shipped into the Los Angeles 
                                sushi market.
 | 
                        
                        The 
                          Abalone Market
                          The Abalone market is 
                          a thriving market. Over 1200 lbs a week get shipped 
                          into the Los Angeles sushi market alone. Approximately 
                          two tons of abalone are harvested a week at the Abalone 
                          Farm, and are shipped world wide.
                        “The 
                          challenge in abalone farming is to never over harvest 
                          due to the pressure of demand”, says on site manager 
                          Brad Buckley. “If you over harvest, you are ultimately 
                          bringing your size down. If you bring your size down, 
                          you are bringing in less money. Then it takes you a 
                          good 6 – 8 months of a low harvest to recover 
                          what you’ve lost.”
                        Frozen 
                          Abalone from the Abalone Farm can be purchased at www.fbworld.com. 
                          Please call us direct if you have need for a live abalone 
                          shipment. Minimum orders will apply.
                        
                        Best 
                          Way To Handle And Cook Abalone
                          When you have a live abalone, 
                          immediately shuck it out of the shell, foot side down, 
                          by placing a thin fillet knife against the inside of 
                          the flat portion of the shell, and move it inward, cutting 
                          the muscle attachment close to the shell. The muscle 
                          tissue is amazingly reactive. You want it to die, and 
                          relax. Remove the meat from the shell. Trim the head, 
                          gills, and viscera. Again, lay the abalone foot side 
                          down. Place the knife forward of the point where the 
                          meat was attached to the shell, and cut at a 45 degree 
                          angle down and forward. Tenderize gently with a meat 
                          mallot. If you do not have a meat mallot, the broad 
                          side of a knife will do. While alive, do a quick sauté 
                          in a hot skillet coated with either oil or butter, after 
                          you have dipped it with egg wash, or coated it with 
                          flour. If it is tough, it means it was not handled properly. 
                          Do not refrigerate live abalone. Just cool it in natural 
                          air. If you are working with frozen abalone, (available 
                          in www.fbworld.com. 
                          on line shop) defrost, then tenderize by hammering while 
                          still in the plastic covering.
                        This 
                          article is about California Red Abalone, indigenous 
                          to the cold Pacific ocean waters. These are a little 
                          more challenging to work with than the abalone spawned 
                          out of the warmer waters throughout the world, and as 
                          such always need to be coated first, in either an egg 
                          wash, or a sprinkle of flour. There must always be either 
                          butter or olive oil in the pan. The direct contact with 
                          the hot pan will make the red abalone tough.
                        
                           
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                        Great 
                          Abalone Recipes Links:
                          Abalone 
                          Chowder
                          Abalone 
                          Cioppino
                          Abalone 
                          Dore
                          Abalone 
                          Medallions
                          Beurre 
                          Blanc Sauce
                        Other 
                          Related Links:
                          The 
                          Abalone Farm
                          Memories 
                          from Guglionesi
                          Edward 
                          Pizzuti - Bio
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